by Scott McWhinnie

used to live above the falafel shop at Bloor and Bathurst in Toronto – which eliminated my need to cook but left me broke. Honest Ed and the old Sneaky Dees balanced the triad of sustenance for me in those days. I don’t think I would have moved had I known THE Organic Farmers' Market was coming. Seconds from the Bathurst subway stop, Markham Street in Mirvish Village has been the home of the market, formerly known as the Knives & Forks Organic Market, since September/94. In friendlier weather the group are out in the street, but on my visit this February the farmers and vendors were cozily housed in Frances Wood’s Southern Accent restaurant and in the basement of Common Knowledge Books across the street. The milder weather this fall had some staying outside into November. ;

The location of the market has changed many times in the past half dozen years since its inception. It has been held in the basement of a deserted nightclub, a warehouse where the Princess of Wales Theatre now stands and the Mövenpick on York Street. The latest location seems to suit the market with respect to both ambience and logic. Many of the regular customers live in the immediate area and are encouraged by the new convenience and accessibility. When out of doors, it is billed as a street fair with craft vendors, performers, buskers and community service groups all being invited to participate. ;

Something new for the market in recent months has been the introduction of organic lunches and demonstrations by Knives & Forks member chefs at Southern Accent. This has proven to be immensely popular with the market goers, so much so that reservations may soon be necessary. ;

The market has managed to revive some of the old-style marketplace spirit that was lost somewhere in this century, trampled on by barcode checkouts and agri-business. I was fortunate enough to have had a behind-the-scenes look at the market a couple of summers back when I sold berries for Orchard Hill of Sparta. Everyone there – vendors, chefs, buyers alike – made me feel welcome and at ease with my newfound task. For many, it was a family affair, with kids encouraged to taste, ask questions and be aware. My few weekends there were more rewarding than my seven years at Supermarket X could ever have been. I felt as if I had found or had been reunited with a lost tribe, living among us for decades, who had managed to revive their culture and hold court in an unlikely, though dynamic and enjoyable setting. I’m told that Honest Ed himself pops by in the morning to check out the action.;

Unless it’s a shutdown holiday like Christmas, the gang are there year-round every Saturday from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. The diversity of the organic products available is amazing, with a selection that puts supermarkets to shame. Most of the vendors travel a sizable distance to be there early (and bright) for their customers. Early arrival is recommended for first dibs but the selection never disappoints.;

Here are some of the grower/vendors you'll meet when you visit THE Organic Farmers' Market.;

Hans Stickling: Stickling’s Specialty Bakery;

"Total Value" is how Hans likes to describe his bakery’s line of products which are prepared using 100% organic grains grown in Ontario. Not only do these products carry the maximum nutritional value; they are of great appeal to those of us who have food allergies to yeast, gluten and wheat. The secret is a low-temperature baking process, taking 5-24 hours, which allows the grains to saturate and soften, conserving nutrients and making for easy digestion. Hans has spent "a lifetime" in the bakery business, following in the steps of his parents. He enjoys his trek from Peterborough on Saturdays; as he puts it, "Nothing can beat the direct one-on-one contact the market allows." Even though his products are preservative-free they have a long shelf life made possible by a heat-sealing process which retains their quality. Along with the multitude of breads such as kamut, rye, spelt and flax, Hans has a wide selection of sweet treats, pastas, bagels and rolls that are impossible to resist.;

Mike Phillips: Rowe Farm Meats/Highland Springs Trout Farm;

"Freshness is the key," says Mike, a market regular since Day One. The concept of fresh meat and fish in the truest sense is the strong point of the Rowe/Highland Springs operations. The customer receives a product that was prepared only hours before purchase, an unusual event in the 90’s. Mike has not had any sleep on a Friday night for many moons but this doesn’t seem to reduce his enthusiasm one bit. The beef, and fish he sells are from animals raised without growth promotants and subtherapeutic antibiotics and his deli products are MSG- and lactose-free. Pork and chicken are also part of his fare. Mike points out that there is absolutely no request he won’t try to satisfy, a customer service that is in scarce supply these days. ;

Ted Thorpe: Thorpe’s Organic Produce;

Ted hails from Millgrove, just north of Hamilton, where he and his partner Lorie Ritcey settled in 1989 – the hundred year anniversary of his family’s first agricultural undertaking. Beginning with just a quarter-acre garden which was certified in 1990, the operation has blossomed to 18 acres. They grow a number of vegetables, the staples being lettuce, spinach, broccoli, kale and swiss chard. They also grow a few varieties of melon. The discovery of a high level of nitrates in their well water coupled with the birth of their first son were strong factors in the push toward the organic option. Ted is optimistic at the potential for growth in the organic food industry, especially for those specializing in vegetables. Although wholesalers in recent years have made volume organic sales more common, Ted still sees the farmer’s market as the key to providing a broader base of access to organic goods. By reaching out to smaller community markets, the exposure of organics could move farther afield than simply in the larger cities and the Ontario/Quebec region. ;

Phil Mathewson: South Bay Vineyards ;

Phil is a market veteran who has been farming organically since 1981. He specializes in growing a wide range of flavorful heirloom fruit and vegetable varieties. The farm boasts more than 400 rare cultivars and 100+ grape types on their constantly evolving vineyard and winery property. It’s about a two-hour trek to the market from Milford, in Prince Edward County south of Belleville, Ontario, but Phil takes it in stride. His Saturday morning selection covers an incredible range. The bounty you’ll find includes cider and other juices, coffee, syrups and peanut butter, root crops and grains, shiitake mushrooms and cheeses. He believes that by listening to his customers, he is able to provide the best possible service to them. It is his solid insight and firm belief in the organic way that keeps them coming back for more.;

David Cohlmeyer: Cookstown Greens;

The quest for the best quality produce led to David’s transformation from a chef in Toronto to a grower in Cookstown, about an hour north of the city. He is a year-round regular at the market which, in his mind, is an excellent forum for growers to work together toward quality and share methods, problems and solutions. His most popular item is baby salad greens, from the field in season and the greenhouse in winter. He also supplies edible flowers year round. In the winter months David has an array of root cellar exotica such as red artichokes, black salsify and white carrots. Summer fare includes chocolate peppers, multicolored tomatoes and orange eggplants, to name but a few. David’s main goal is to provide goods with superior flavor that are attractive and have a long shelf life. Couple this with a commitment to having a consistent quality and supply, and Cookstown Greens never fails to satisfy both the curiosity and the tastes of its customers.;

Susan Graves and Kenneth Solway: Chestnut Hill Farm;

Susan and Kenny describe Chestnut Hill, located in the Northumberland Hills about an hour and a half from Toronto, as "a living sculpture always in progress". They bring a full array of vegetables to the market, including some forty varieties of lettuce, squash, tomatoes, beets and peppers. They also raise lamb, rabbit, chickens and other fowl. The shortage of free-range eggs that was felt at the market last year should be resolved this summer with the growth of their poultry population. A new acreage of strawberries and raspberries will be in full swing this year. The future, they feel, is in innovative production ideas, value-added production and bold new marketing moves. They can be found at the market once a month in the winter and every week when the hemisphere heats up.;

Scott McWhinnie is a not-so-recent graduate of the University of Guelph Agriculture Diploma Program. He is heading to the U.K. as a WWOOFer to get his hands dirty again after a year and a half in front of a computer.